As a world-class mountaineer, Roxanne Vogel, 33, from Berkeley, California, witnessed the deaths of 6 out of 11 people between May 18 and May 25, 2019. These fatalities occurred while they, along with 150 other climbers, were “queuing up” for their turn to step onto the summit of Mount Everest. Most died from cerebral or pulmonary edema—consequences of acute altitude sickness.
According to Vogel, the primary cause of this tragedy was the commercialization of this extreme sport by the Nepal Department of Tourism.
The Deadly Climbing Season
Unlike Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who chose the Nepalese side to conquer the 8,848m “Roof of the World” in 1953, Roxanne Vogel chose the Tibetan side (China) for her departure.
“Because the Everest terrain on the Tibetan side is extremely harsh, 90% of modern climbers follow the route taken by Hillary and Norgay. Only 10% choose Tibet, including myself,” Vogel said.
Vogel, a nutrition quality manager for GU Labs, reached the summit after a two-week climb. She explained that on the Nepalese route, climbers must pass through a series of camps before reaching the “Hillary Step”—a small, rocky outcrop where Hillary and Norgay rested before the final 30-meter push.
On the Tibetan side, Vogel had to navigate the Rongbuk glacier and scale vertical rock faces. The stretch between Camp III and Camp IV (North Col) at 7,101m is nicknamed the “Death Threshold.” Sherpas must drive steel stakes into the ice and string safety ropes to combat the constant blizzards and temperatures that drop to -30°C.
Queuing in Danger
From late April through May, climbers flock to Nepal to conquer Everest (known as Chomolangma to locals). According to the Nepal Department of Tourism, only about 30% of climbers reach the summit annually. The 70% who fail usually succumb to air pressure, exhaustion, insufficient oxygen due to weather delays, or inexperienced guides.
In 2019, Nepal issued a record 381 permits, up from 207 the previous year. Each permit costs $11,000, excluding the massive costs for gear, oxygen, and Sherpas.
“Standing on Everest, I saw a ‘snake’ of people forming a long line,” Vogel recalled. “Because the summit area is only about the size of two table-tennis tables, only 15 people are allowed up at a time for a 15-minute photo opportunity.” Others must wait an average of one hour for their turn.
Waiting for an hour at 8,800m in sub-zero temperatures is a recipe for disaster. Vogel saw four bodies right at the summit. “I didn’t know what to do. Bodies are often left in place until recovery teams can bring them down, which can take years depending on the weather.”
Dr. Dohring, a climber from Arizona, witnessed the death of British climber Robin Haynes Fisher. After reaching the summit, Fisher collapsed just 150m into his descent. Despite a Sherpa’s attempts to help, Fisher passed away. A week prior, Fisher had warned on Instagram: “With only a single route to the summit, delays caused by overcrowding could prove fatal.”
Other victims included Irishman Kevin Hynes, who died in his sleep at 7,500m, and Nihal Bagwan from India, who died during his descent.
Understanding the “Death Zone”
Dr. Dohring explained that deaths are primarily caused by two conditions:
Altitude Sickness (AS): Occurs between 1,850m and 5,895m, causing nausea, dizziness, and lethargy.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): Occurs above 8,000m. This leads to HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) and HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Symptoms include loss of consciousness, severe headaches, and coughing up pink, frothy blood.
Indian climber Anjali Kulkarni and American Donald Lynn Cash both died from pulmonary edema. Others, like Seamus Lawless and Ravi Thakar, died from falls, while Austrian Ernst Landgraf suffered cardiac arrest. The 11th victim, American lawyer Christopher John Kulish, died of cerebral edema just 30 meters from the summit.
Why Did the Disaster Happen?
The tragedy highlighted the danger of hundreds of people idling in the “Death Zone.”
“The more time you spend up there, the higher the risk,” Vogel said. “Many people only carry enough oxygen to reach the summit and return. Being stuck for an hour is a death sentence.”
While many blame the high number of permits, others point to the lack of coordination between trekking companies. Under pressure from “customers” to use the best weather windows, everyone pushes for the summit simultaneously.
Guide Adrian Ballinger noted that many see Everest as the “ultimate challenge” but lack the necessary experience. Alyssa Azar, 19, suggested that Nepal should strictly regulate permit numbers and health requirements.
However, reform seems unlikely. When questioned about the overcrowding, Danduraj Ghimire, Director General of the Nepal Department of Tourism, responded bluntly: “If you really want to limit the number of climbers, the best way is for travel companies to stop offering tours to our country’s sacred mountain…”