Skip to main content

The Death Of Mallory And Irvine On Everest: What Does The New Boot On The Rongbuk Glacier Reveal About The Final Hours Of The Two Missing Climbers

The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine: The Last Sight on Everest – 8 June 1924

On this day, June 8, 1924, one of the greatest mysteries in mountaineering history unfolded high on Everest.

It was the last time George Mallory and Andrew Irvine were seen alive, spotted by Noel Odell at around 12:50 p.m., climbing high on Everest’s Northeast Ridge, possibly near the Second Step, at approximately 8,600 meters (28,200 feet) above sea level. Moments later, they disappeared into the clouds and were never seen again.

1. The 1924 Expedition

The 1924 British Mount Everest expedition was the third attempt by the British to reach the summit of the world’s highest peak. Mallory, already a veteran of the 1921 and 1922 expeditions, was the expedition’s most experienced climber. Irvine, a talented young engineer and rower, was the youngest member of the team.

On the morning of June 8, Mallory and Irvine set off from Camp VI for their final summit push. They were seen by Odell around 12:50 p.m., “going strong” and climbing “with great alacrity.”

Then the clouds closed in. They were never seen again.

2. The Great Mystery

Their disappearance became one of mountaineering’s greatest mysteries, captivating climbers and dreamers for generations. More than 100 years later, no one knows for certain what happened above the clouds that day.

Did Mallory and Irvine stand on the summit of Everest before they disappeared?

If they did, they would have achieved the first ascent of Everest – 29 years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

3. The Discovery of Mallory’s Body

In 1999, Mallory’s body was discovered on the mountain’s North Face by an American expedition. His remains were remarkably well-preserved. He was found at approximately 8,155 meters, with signs of a fall.

His personal effects – including letters, a pocket knife, and an altimeter – were recovered. One crucial item was missing: the photograph of his wife, Ruth, which he had said he would leave on the summit.

4. The Unanswered Question

Irvine’s body has never been found. The camera he carried – a Kodak Vest Pocket camera – has never been recovered. If that camera were ever found and the film inside developed, it could finally answer the question: Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit?

The mountain has kept its secret ever since.

Primary Sources:

Noel Odell’s sighting report – June 8, 1924

Expedition records – 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition

Mallory’s personal letters and effects

1999 discovery of Mallory’s body – Eric Simonson expedition

Wikipedia – George Mallory / Andrew Irvine / 1924 British Mount Everest expedition