Hermann Buhl: Remembering a Legend Lost on Chogolisa – 27 June 1957
On this day, June 27, 1957, the mountaineering world lost Hermann Buhl, one of the greatest alpinists in history. Just 18 days after making the first ascent of Broad Peak, Buhl disappeared high on Chogolisa after a cornice collapsed beneath him. He was just 32 years old. His body was never found.
1. The Extraordinary Feats of Hermann Buhl
Only four years earlier, in 1953, Buhl had achieved one of mountaineering’s most extraordinary feats. He made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters) entirely alone on the final push, without supplementary oxygen or high-altitude support. It was a solo summit of one of the world’s most dangerous peaks – an act of sheer will and courage that stunned the climbing world.
Then, in 1957, Buhl achieved another historic milestone: the first ascent of Broad Peak (8,051 meters). With this ascent, he became the first person to climb two 8,000-meter peaks – both first ascents, and both achieved without bottled oxygen.
2. A Legacy That Endures
Buhl’s legacy extends far beyond the summits he reached. His style of lightweight, self-reliant climbs helped shape Himalayan alpinism and inspired generations of climbers to value style as much as success. He believed in moving fast, carrying little, and trusting in one’s own ability – a philosophy that would later define the “alpine style” of climbing.
He was not just a climber; he was a pioneer who redefined what was possible in the high mountains.
3. The Final Day on Chogolisa
On June 27, 1957, Buhl was climbing Chogolisa (7,665 meters) with his partner Kurt Diemberger. High on the mountain, a snow cornice gave way beneath him. He fell into the void. Despite extensive searches, his body was never recovered.
The mountain claimed him, but his spirit remained in the peaks he had conquered and the climbers he inspired.
4. Remembering a Legend
Today, Hermann Buhl is remembered as one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. His solo ascent of Nanga Parbat remains one of the most remarkable achievements in climbing history. His name is spoken with reverence alongside other legends of the golden age of Himalayan exploration.
Though his life ended on the slopes of Chogolisa on this day in 1957, the example he set continues to inspire mountaineers on the world’s highest peaks.
Primary Sources:
Expedition records – Nanga Parbat 1953 / Broad Peak 1957 / Chogolisa 1957
Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage (memoir)
Kurt Diemberger, The Endless Knot (memoir)
Historical accounts of Himalayan mountaineering
Wikipedia – Hermann Buhl / Nanga Parbat / Broad Peak / Chogolisa