Mount Everest and the Deadly History of the “Roof of the World”
Located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas, on the border between Tibet and Nepal, Mount Everest stands at 8,849 meters above sea level. It is the highest peak in the world, a symbol of human achievement, and a deadly challenge for those who dare to face it.
This article explores the history of Everest’s discovery, the key milestones in its conquest, and the ongoing challenges this mountain presents to climbers over the decades.
1. Who Were the First to Explore Everest?
Mount Everest has two main climbing routes: the Southeast Ridge from Nepal and the North Ridge from Tibet. Although the North Ridge route is shorter, most climbers today choose the Southeast Ridge because it is more accessible.
The First Expeditions
In 1921, during a British reconnaissance expedition, mountaineer George Mallory mapped the North Ridge route. In 1922, he and his companions – Brits Geoffrey Bruce, Charles Granville Bruce, and Austrian chemist George Finch – made the first attempt to summit using oxygen, but they failed due to an avalanche.
In June 1924, Mallory and fellow British climber Andrew Irvine tried again, but they did not survive. During a later expedition in 1999, Mallory’s body was found. Due to climate change, the ice and snow continue to melt, revealing more bodies of climbers in recent years.
The Route Change
In the 1920s and 1930s, the first attempts to conquer the peak were made from the Tibetan side, but this route was officially closed after Tibet was annexed by China in 1951. As a result, British explorer Bill Tilman, along with three Americans – Charles Houston, Oscar Houston, and Betsy Cowles – approached Everest via Nepal. This route was gradually developed into the main climbing path from the south, which remains the primary route today.
In 1952, members of a Swedish expedition led by Edouard Wyss-Dunant climbed to an altitude of 8,595 meters via the Southeast Ridge, setting a new record. Tenzing Norgay, a member of that expedition and a Nepali Sherpa, later joined a British expedition the following year.
2. Conquering Everest: The Historic Moment
In 1953, the British expedition led by John Hunt returned to Nepal. He selected four climbers, divided into two pairs, to make the summit attempt. The first pair, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans, reached within 91 meters of the summit but had to turn back due to oxygen problems. Two days later, the second pair – New Zealand climber Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay – reached the summit. They took photographs, left some candy and a small cross behind.
Records from 2000 to the Present
Today, the mountain has become easier to climb, but it remains no less dangerous. A 2022 study revealed that glaciers on Everest are melting rapidly due to climate change, causing more frequent avalanches. The world’s highest glacier, the South Col Glacier, has thinned by 55 meters over the past 25 years. However, warmer temperatures and receding ice have made the climbing route somewhat easier.
Technology has also made climbing safer. Today, climbers can easily obtain supplemental oxygen during the ascent, and if they feel exhausted, they can be evacuated by helicopter.
Over 6,000 people have reached the summit of Everest, and more than 300 have died trying. Among those who succeeded, 80% have climbed since the year 2000.
3. When Was Everest First Measured?
According to the Department of Geology at the University of Montana, Mount Everest was first identified in 1856. During a comprehensive survey of British India, the peak was labeled “Peak XV” at a height of 8,840 meters. However, the survey was difficult because Nepal did not allow surveyors to enter the country.
The currently recognized height comes from a joint survey conducted by Nepal and China in November 2021, although technically, Everest’s height is constantly changing. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, the mountain is rising due to tectonic plate activity and sea level rise.
The Naming of Everest
In 1865, British Surveyor General Andrew Waugh proposed naming the peak after his predecessor, George Everest. For centuries, Tibetans had called the mountain Chomolungma, meaning “Goddess Mother of the World,” but Waugh was unaware of this because Nepal and Tibet were closed to outsiders.
4. The Challenges of Climbing Everest
Mount Everest has always attracted both seasoned mountaineers and amateur climbers from around the world. They often rely on Sherpa guides – an ethnic Tibetan minority group renowned for their knowledge of the Himalayas and their climbing skills.
Climbing more than 3,350 meters from base camp to the summit in an environment with very low oxygen levels is no easy feat. Altitude sickness, extreme weather, high winds, and, in rare cases, high-altitude psychosis are major obstacles to conquering this peak.
Veteran climber Alan Arnette described it as “like holding your breath while climbing a flight of stairs – and not just any stairs, but the stairs of the Empire State Building.”
Key dangers of climbing Everest:
Altitude sickness: The body struggles to adapt to low oxygen levels.
Extreme weather: Temperatures can drop to -60°C.
High winds: Wind speeds can reach up to 200 km/h.
Avalanches: One of the leading causes of death.
Exhaustion: The journey takes many days and requires immense stamina.
5. Key Milestones in Everest History
6. Conclusion: Everest – A Symbol of Conquest and Death
Mount Everest is not only the highest peak in the world – it is a symbol of courage, perseverance, and a reminder of human vulnerability in the face of nature’s power. Over 6,000 people have stood on its summit, but more than 300 others have never returned.
Every climbing season, hundreds of people flock to Everest to test themselves. But the mountain never forgives mistakes. And although technology has made climbing safer, Everest remains one of the most dangerous places on Earth.
Primary Sources:
Department of Geology, University of Montana – Everest measurement history
U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) – Elevation and tectonic activity
Joint Nepal-China survey (November 2021)
Reports on the 1996 Everest disaster
Interview with veteran climber Alan Arnette