On July 14, 1865, seven mountaineers stood on the summit of the Matterhorn (4,478 meters) for the first time, claiming the last great unclimbed prize of the Alps. Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, Lord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder and his son had left Zermatt the previous day and climbed the Hörnli Ridge under clear skies. By around 2:00 p.m., all seven were on top. After years of failed attempts, Whymper had finally reached the summit.
But the triumph lasted only hours. During the descent, a tragic accident occurred. Four men fell from the mountain and lost their lives. Whymper and the two Taugwalders survived, spending a terrible night on the mountain before returning to Zermatt with news that shocked Europe.
This documentary examines the first ascent of the Matterhorn, the tragedy that followed, and the enduring legacy of one of mountaineering’s most unforgettable stories.
1. The Last Great Prize of the Alps
By the mid-19th century, nearly all of the great Alpine peaks had been climbed. But one remained unconquered: the Matterhorn. Its steep, jagged profile dominated the skyline of the Swiss-Italian border, and its sheer cliffs had defeated every attempt to reach the summit. Climbers from across Europe had tried and failed.
Edward Whymper, a young British artist and engraver, had made seven unsuccessful attempts on the mountain. In 1865, he returned to Zermatt determined to succeed.
2. The Ascent: A Perfect Day on the Mountain
On July 13, 1865, Whymper and his team left Zermatt and began their climb up the Hörnli Ridge. The weather was clear, the conditions favorable. The team moved steadily upward, overcoming the technical challenges of the ridge.
By around 2:00 p.m. on July 14, all seven men stood on the summit of the Matterhorn. It was the first time in history that anyone had reached the top. After years of effort, Whymper’s dream had finally been realized.
3. The Descent: Tragedy Strikes
The descent was where the triumph turned to tragedy. As the team made their way down, one of the younger climbers, Douglas Hadow, slipped. He fell onto Michel Croz, the French guide, knocking him from the mountain. Croz’s fall pulled Charles Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas with him.
The rope connecting Lord Douglas to the elder Taugwalder snapped. In seconds, four men disappeared down the north face of the Matterhorn.
Whymper and the two Taugwalders survived. They spent a terrible night on the mountain before descending to Zermatt with the news that would shock Europe.
4. The Aftermath: Grief, Inquiry, and Accusation
The bodies of Croz, Hudson, and Hadow were later recovered from the Matterhorn Glacier. Lord Francis Douglas was never found. His body remains somewhere on the mountain to this day.
An official inquiry cleared the survivors of any blame. However, accusations followed for years. Some questioned the decisions made during the descent. Others speculated about the rope that had broken. But no evidence of wrongdoing was ever found.
5. The Legacy: A Mountain Forever Changed
The first ascent of the Matterhorn was a landmark achievement in mountaineering history. But it was also a tragedy that would never be forgotten. The mountain had been climbed, but the cost had been immense.
Today, the Matterhorn remains one of the most iconic mountains in the world. Its first ascent is remembered not only as a triumph of human determination but also as a reminder of the risks that climbers face in pursuit of the summit.
Primary Sources:
Whymper, Edward. Scrambles Amongst the Alps (1871)
Historical accounts of the first ascent of the Matterhorn (1865)
Official inquiry records following the tragedy
Alpine Club archives — Matterhorn expedition records
Mountaineering journals and records (1865)