2026’s First Himalayan Deaths Are Nearly Unbelievable
24,600 feet. Makalu’s summit. Four climbers stumble on a knife-sharp ridge.
They were experienced climbers. They made all the right decisions. They knew what they were doing. So what happened? The first deaths in the Himalayas in 2026 are nearly impossible to believe.
1. The Mountain That Refuses to Forgive
Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet), is considered one of the most technically challenging 8,000-meter mountains . Located just 19 kilometers southeast of Everest, its pyramid-shaped peak demands advanced rock and ice climbing skills, with steep sections and knife-edge ridges that test even the most experienced mountaineers .
In 2026, this unforgiving mountain claimed multiple lives in a series of tragic events that shocked the climbing world.
2. The Avalanche That Killed in Broad Daylight
On May 10, 2026, American climber Shelley Johannesen, 53, a mother of three and co-founder of the adventure outfitter Dash Adventures, had just reached the summit of Makalu with her partner Dave Ashley and two Nepali guides . They had summited on May 9 and were descending the next morning when disaster struck .
According to veteran climber Phunuru Sherpa, who coordinated the rescue, the avalanche was a complete anomaly . Over 30 inches of snow had fallen on the mountain the night before, followed by winds of up to 60 miles per hour, creating an unstable snowpack .
The group of four climbers—Ashley, Johannesen, Tawa Sherpa, and Phurba Sonam Sherpa—were descending from Camp III at approximately 24,600 feet . The avalanche hit the group, with the massive wall of snow slamming into Johannesen and Tawa Sherpa, severing their fixed line and carrying them down 1,000 to 1,300 vertical feet . Ashley and Phurba Sonam Sherpa were only carried a short distance .
3. The Final Hours: Death at 24,000 Feet
Johannesen’s partner, Dave Ashley, spent over 13 hours holding her in the freezing cold, waiting for rescue . At 3:30 p.m. on May 10, he reached her—she was lying on her side, conscious but in severe pain. He spooned her while holding a tarp over them, enduring wind gusts of up to 70 mph . A rescue team was forced to turn back due to dangerous conditions .
Around 2:45 a.m. on May 11, rescuers finally reached the stranded climbers. Johannesen’s condition worsened, and she died in Ashley’s arms in the early morning hours . Tawa Sherpa was also severely injured but survived .
Her final words, according to Ashley, were: “She kept asking if I was there… I said, ‘Yes, I’m right here holding you'” .
4. Other Tragedies on Makalu
Johannesen’s death was not the only tragedy on Makalu in 2026:
A 53-year-old Nepali guide died on Makalu while descending after reaching the summit .
On June 14, 60-year-old French climber Johnny Saliba died at 8,120 meters during his summit push after suffering symptoms of altitude sickness .
A Russian climber lost several fingers to frostbite after his guide allegedly abandoned him during the descent. He later sued the expedition company, though they denied the allegations .
5. Why These Deaths Are “Nearly Unbelievable”
What makes these deaths so shocking is that the climbers were experienced, well-prepared, and made the right decisions. Johannesen and her team had waited for a weather window, summited successfully, and were descending safely—only to be struck by a one-in-a-thousand avalanche. As Phunuru Sherpa put it: “Such a slide is unprecedented… caused by substantial snow and extremely high winds this season” .
In the Death Zone above 8,000 meters, even perfect preparation cannot guarantee survival.
Primary Sources:
Outside Magazine — Makalu avalanche survivor interview (2026)
CBS News — American climber killed on Makalu (2026)
New York Post — Climber dies in partner’s arms (2026)
New Age BD — French climber dies on Makalu (2026)
KSL News — Utah climber home after deadly avalanche (2026)
The Himalayan Times — Spring 2026 climbing season opens (2026)